An iridescent journey from the sun-kissed coasts of Goa to the snow-clad summits of Himachal Pradesh, traversing through the roads that string various cultures and people into one. Riding through 10 states, for 18 days, clocking 5,200+ Kms, the road trip atop a Royal Enfield Standard 500 will be cherished for years to come. More so because I also met the author who made me fall in love as much with the hills and mountains, rhododendrons and daisies, as the faceless ghosts and everything mystery; Ruskin Bond.
Like the journey, my account of the journey is bound to be long (but not tedious, promise!) hence, I would take the liberty of posting the narratives in brief sections.
A little preface
The biking trip that I had been planning for so long finally happened. I ordered a few essentials online, knee guards, saddle bags, oxygen cylinders (for safe travels at high altitude), mobile holder & charger – important for navigation, thanks to Google Maps; a webbed bungee cover, and maybe a few more items. Also, I bought emergency medicines and bandages, a Royal Enfield buff, and some other sundry items. Was I prepared to go on the trip? Well, not until I got my bike ready and raring to go! I own a Standard 500 (UCE), a sturdy steed that has given me unfaltering service and company in many rides, including a middle-of-the-night journey traversing through the thick and deep jungles of Wayanad, where wild elephants roam in great herds.
I took the bike to the service station and requested one of the mechanics to have a thorough inspection of the bike. The good mechanic announced that the chain set needed to be replaced, along with several bearings and the carburettor pipe. Also, I got the handle lock changed. There were several other minor changes to be made before the beast was ready to raid the Himalayas. I wasn’t too sure about the tyres, though. There were firm and clear grooves on both the tyres, but a sign of wearing off could also not be dismissed. I took advise from a few other riders and a mechanic, too. Everyone said that I didn’t need a change of tyres; and I took their advice. But I had second thoughts about my indecision, several thousand kilometers later.
The First Phase of Journey: Goa – Delhi (total distance – 2,030 Kms) | Riding Solo | Motorcycle Trip
Got to Delhi Route Taken:
Goa to Kolhapur (via Chorla Ghat) | Distance: 214 lms
Kolhapur to Pune (via NH 48) | Distance: 230 kms
Pune to Surat (via Old Mumbai-Pune Highway, Lonavala, Khandala, Vapi) | Distance: 417 kms
Surat to Udaipur (via Godhra to avoid Vadodara – Ahmedabad Expressway) | Distance: 496 kms
**Two-wheelers aren’t allowed on the Mumbai-Pune Expressway and Vadodara-Ahmedabad Expressway**
Udaipur to Jaipur (via NH 58; Beawar, Ajmer) | Distance: 393 Kms
Jaipur to Delhi (via NH 48) | Distance: 280 kms
Friday, June 31, 2019 | 8:00 am
Day 1: Goa to Kolhapur
Rising heat, and a sense of ‘too much time at my hands,’ made me decide to keep the Day 1 of the trip lighter. I decided to ride only till Kolhapur on the first day. Starting leisurely, after a hearty breakfast, I trudged on towards my destination, Kolhapur. The day was quite hot and I could feel the ferocity of the Sun early in the day. Google suggested the route via Chorla Ghat to be the shortest. I followed it. Cruising on the smooth, well-marked Goan roads, I reached the foot of the mighty Sahyadri range in no time. Cruising at a comfortable pace, I climbed the Ghat road, appreciating the thick green foliage on either side of the road. The air was cooler and the Sun rays came filtering from the canopies of treetops. Why couldn’t every road be like this?
After taking in the magnificent view from the top of the Chorla Ghat, I continued towards Belgaum, the only major city between Goa and Kolhapur. Leaving Goa, I entered the Karnataka border – the difference in road condition is a reminder, should you miss the border entry – and noticed the sharp difference in the topography.
While Goa is all about swaying palms and thick coconut groves, the landscape now altered to show exposed land – brazen and bare. Big rocks studded in the ground. The flatland was now entirely treeless.
I thought of crossing Belgaum in a jiffy, however, the increased heat and the lack of water made me stop at an eatery on the side of the road. It was actually a hotel with a restaurant serving pretty decent food.
After filling my water canteen and hydration bag, I again plunged into the heat. The highway now was wider, and straight as an arrow. All I had to do was to sit tight and accelerate.
However, experience has taught me to be vigilant at all times and not to fall in the lull of a constant high speed, because an occasional two-wheeler is bound to come from the wrong side, a state roadways bus is certain to sneak up from behind, silently, or a tempo traveller will swerve dangerously in your direction.
I did meet two-wheelers approaching from the wrong side, and the buses did creep up behind me, but none was fatal because I was alert and ready.
I thought that reaching Kolhapur would be a cake. And although I reached there before the clock struck 3:00 pm, I was well-roasted under the fierce mid-afternoon sun.
Relieved to be in the hotel, I took a cold shower and felt human again. I had planned to look for the best places to eat in each city I arrived, and I tried this with my first sojourn at Kolhapur. An episode of Highway on My Plate mentioned Shyam Vada Centre and Bhau Bhelpuri as must places to taste the street food of the city. So, off I went searching for these two food destinations. But as luck would have it, Shyam Vada Centre was shut that day, and after going around in rings – and walking close to 4 kms – I could only reach an unappealing franchise of Raja Bhau Bhelpuri. No patrons, no meeting with the charismatic man. Yet, I helped myself with something of a novelty; the ‘masala cone.’
Exhausted by the walk and unnecessary milling about, I returned to the hotel and ordered food from Swiggy. The meal may have tasted better in the famous restaurant from where I had ordered, but I was way too tired to venture out.
My resolution to visit all the famous food destinations throughout my journey was out of the window, the very first day!
… Rest, in the next post. Ciao!
Vroom Tales: Solo Riding Experiences 