Day 5 – Udaipur to Jaipur (Thumping My Way from Goa to Chitkul)

I was upbeat and happy the next morning until I heard the receptionist praising me for braving 50 degrees C (temperature recorded in Godhra) on the bike. The previous day’s ride was tough, of course, but I had not known the temperature then. After hearing how hot it was, I couldn’t help but think about the day’s ride ahead of me.

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Luckily, I started early, about a quarter to seven in the morning. This helped me to gain a reasonable distance until the time the day got uncomfortably hot. The knowledge that the distance to be covered was significantly shorter than the previous day gave me a little reason to cheer. I followed NH 8 (via Ajmer) to reach Jaipur. The highway is pretty good – nothing to complain. In fact, there were stretches where the road was gleaming, smooth, well-marked and sans traffic. One could literally glide through these roads, taking in the surrounding landscape, which is a bare expanse spotted with short dry shrubs and powdery, sandy soil.

But beware! Don’t get lost in the scenery as you may suddenly come upon a herd of cows, who take offence at being interrupted in their leisurely walks. As I wound a curve, I came up to two gorgeous looking cows (probably sisters as they had the same features) who looked visibly annoyed at being honked at. I could sense the disdain and contempt they had for me in their eyes, and without harrying them, I weaved my way forward. 

The dusty, sweltry and exposed landscape was reminiscent of the Wild Wild West. If you ride through these parts, you could very well imagine yourself as a cowboy on a steel horse, exploring the wasteland, testing your tenacity in the process.

The heat was intense, and again, I kept a lookout for wayside trees for taking a break from the Sun. Unfortunately, the wide, expansive highway had very little to offer by way of trees or any shade. At around 3:00 pm, I could bear the heat no more and stopped at a rather royal looking hotel with a restaurant. I chose the place because it had covered parking, and I wanted my bike to cool down. I was lucky to escape the hot wind or the dreaded loo (the fatal hot winds that blow through the Northern Plains, claiming many lives each year) just in time. The spacious, air-conditioned restaurant was nothing short of an oasis, albeit a man-made one. After washing, I sat down for a meal. Although, I wasn’t hungry, I decided to cool down and let the Sun mellow down a bit. Out of a whim, I asked them if they had Daal-Baati, and to my utter surprise, they were serving a Rajasthani thali complete with Daal Baati Churma and chaach!

I took my time nibbling on the scrumptious baatis, soaked in desi-ghee, and dipped in a palatable kadhi and daal. After a hearty meal, I geared up again for a final stop at the hotel; I was some 80-odd kilometres from Jaipur. 

The splendid meal and the warm gusts of air were making me drowsy, and the increasing traffic on the road made it. Nonetheless, meandering through the cacophony, I eventually made it to the Jaipur hotel well before sunset, and after a refreshing shower, plopped on the bed to make notes of the day.

For dinner, I was suggested by the hotel staff to try khada aaloo pyaaz sabzi. The dish was a simple preparation of potato and small, round onions, stirred together in whole red chillies, cumin and garlic, and sprinkled with all sorts of Indian spices. There was no great burst of flavour as I had expected, yet the simple dish was closest to a homely staple you could get in a hotel kitchen. And I was happy about that.

Next stop was Delhi, in fact, Gurgaon, at my brother’s place. The distance was hardly 270+, and I knew I would cover it in less than 5 hours, including breaks. 

Now, I had two options – start very early and reach Delhi before noon, or start late after catching a good night’s sleep and reach by evening. A sudden vision of miles of road sans trees, a belligerent Sun and mirages put my trust in the first plan.

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