In the previous post, I related little insights on my journey from Kolhapur to Pune. It was a disappointing day, and the excessive heat made things worse. But if I was bothered by the heat during my Day 2 ride, I had absolutely no idea what was in store for me as I advanced north – crossing Gujarat and Rajasthan before reaching Delhi in the first leg of my long and trying journey. But first, my account of the Day 3 journey – Pune to Surat.
In spite of my previous day’s experience, I woke up later than intended and rushed off to saddle my bike at the earliest. However, by the time I started, the coolness of the day had worn off. A strong Sun glowed overhead; a bleak breeze blew as if in protest against the rising heat.
The previous two days’ experience had given me enough resilience to the heat and unruly traffic. And I expected the worse in both respects. I guess, expecting the worst helped me sail through without feeling much pain. I crossed the busy Lonavala and picturesque Khandala with no sweat. The old highway merged with the Expressway for a brief period, throwing me back to the old roads at Khapoli. From there, the road was narrower, but without heavy traffic.
My nightmare started with entering Panvel. City traffic emerged from all corners to engulf me, slowing me down to an annoying pace. The frequent stopping at traffic signals, lane-switching cars and zigzagging two-wheelers tested my patience thoroughly. But like all nightmares, that too ended and I was once again on open roads, Enroute to Surat via Vapi.
To wash away the weariness of the day thus far, I stopped at a wayside McDonald and had a little meal. More than food, I was grateful for the cool interiors.
After about three-quarters of an hour at the McDonald, I resumed my tiresome journey – riding past busses, cars, two-wheelers, fields and buildings and foul-smelling, smoke billowing, factories and also past several lives and their unique life stories. After a few brief stops, I found my roadside sojourn for the night. The unimpressive hotel room with a bit of stale air about it was very different from the pictures on the MMT app. But I was too tired to protest, and skipping dinner, I fell in deep sleep minutes after hitting the bed.
The next day’s journey from Surat to Udaipur was not only the longest but also most punishing. No one in the right frame of mind would think of riding 500+ km through the arid regions in the peak of summer. Yet here I was, and how I got roasted in the Indian Summer Inferno…
Dear readers, till now you have read how I planned and embarked on a 6,000+ kms journey from Goa to Sangla Valley in Himachal Pradesh. In this account of my motorcycle journey from Goa to Delhi, which was the first leg of the trip, I have shared my experience of riding from my home in Benaulim, South Goa, to Kolhapur. This post relates the incidents of my second day of the journey; from Kolhapur to Pune.
Day 2 – Kolhapur to Pune
Having finished my ride well before evening the other day, I felt confident of covering more ground the next day. So, the evening before, I promised my friend in Mumbai to visit him the next day.
But God had other plans for me.
After a late start from Kolhapur, I got thoroughly muddled up in the route to reach Mumbai. Bikes are not allowed on the Mumbai-Pune Expressway, and the alternate routes shown by Google Maps were disconcerting. I followed the map for a while, only to arrive at a dirt road that took me in the middle of nowhere.
Spotted enroute to Pune. Some Dino fan!
Riding back and forth for about an hour, I decided to go along NH 8, at least till Pune. Things however, started to go mad as I neared Satara. People, especially on two-wheelers and Bolero taxis, simply made an annoying scramble at junctions as they rode and drove from every direction, making the progress snail slow. The heat, on the other hand, was oppressive and it was hard to focus. Asking around shop owners on the roadside revealed that reaching Mumbai through the old highway was not Rocket Science, after all. I was getting unnecessarily confused. All I had to do was to follow the straight road ahead, and avoid taking the YRCEW (Express Way) entry points.
But it was already 5:00 pm when I reached the busy Pune outskirts, having travelled barely over 200 kms during the entire day. I made a wise decision of halting at Pune for the night. My friend, though a little crestfallen, understood the perils of trudging on to Mumbai just for an overnight stay.
The MakeMyTrip app, which I used all through the trip, helped me in booking a hotel in Hinjewadi – not far from the highway – in no time. Overall, Day 2 was disappointing in terms of distance covered and troubles taken.
After having a frugal dinner, I called it a night a bit early as I had to cover a great deal of distance. From Pune to Surat – crossing the super-clogged outskirts of the City Maximum.
An iridescent journey from the sun-kissed coasts of Goa to the snow-clad summits of Himachal Pradesh, traversing through the roads that string various cultures and people into one. Riding through 10 states, for 18 days, clocking 5,200+ Kms, the road trip atop a Royal Enfield Standard 500 will be cherished for years to come. More so because I also met the author who made me fall in love as much with the hills and mountains, rhododendrons and daisies, as the faceless ghosts and everything mystery; Ruskin Bond.
Like the journey, my account of the journey is bound to be long (but not tedious, promise!) hence, I would take the liberty of posting the narratives in brief sections.
Chitkul, Sangla Valley
A little preface
The biking trip that I had been planning for so long finally happened. I ordered a few essentials online, knee guards, saddle bags, oxygen cylinders (for safe travels at high altitude), mobile holder & charger – important for navigation, thanks to Google Maps; a webbed bungee cover, and maybe a few more items. Also, I bought emergency medicines and bandages, a Royal Enfield buff, and some other sundry items. Was I prepared to go on the trip? Well, not until I got my bike ready and raring to go! I own a Standard 500 (UCE), a sturdy steed that has given me unfaltering service and company in many rides, including a middle-of-the-night journey traversing through the thick and deep jungles of Wayanad, where wild elephants roam in great herds.
I took the bike to the service station and requested one of the mechanics to have a thorough inspection of the bike. The good mechanic announced that the chain set needed to be replaced, along with several bearings and the carburettor pipe. Also, I got the handle lock changed. There were several other minor changes to be made before the beast was ready to raid the Himalayas. I wasn’t too sure about the tyres, though. There were firm and clear grooves on both the tyres, but a sign of wearing off could also not be dismissed. I took advise from a few other riders and a mechanic, too. Everyone said that I didn’t need a change of tyres; and I took their advice. But I had second thoughts about my indecision, several thousand kilometers later.
The First Phase of Journey: Goa – Delhi (total distance – 2,030 Kms) | Riding Solo | Motorcycle Trip
Got to Delhi Route Taken:
Goa to Kolhapur (via Chorla Ghat) | Distance: 214 lms
Kolhapur to Pune (via NH 48) | Distance: 230 kms
Pune to Surat (via Old Mumbai-Pune Highway, Lonavala, Khandala, Vapi) | Distance: 417 kms
Surat to Udaipur (via Godhra to avoid Vadodara – Ahmedabad Expressway) | Distance: 496 kms
**Two-wheelers aren’t allowed on the Mumbai-Pune Expressway and Vadodara-Ahmedabad Expressway**
Rising heat, and a sense of ‘too much time at my hands,’ made me decide to keep the Day 1 of the trip lighter. I decided to ride only till Kolhapur on the first day. Starting leisurely, after a hearty breakfast, I trudged on towards my destination, Kolhapur. The day was quite hot and I could feel the ferocity of the Sun early in the day. Google suggested the route via Chorla Ghat to be the shortest. I followed it. Cruising on the smooth, well-marked Goan roads, I reached the foot of the mighty Sahyadri range in no time. Cruising at a comfortable pace, I climbed the Ghat road, appreciating the thick green foliage on either side of the road. The air was cooler and the Sun rays came filtering from the canopies of treetops. Why couldn’t every road be like this?
After taking in the magnificent view from the top of the Chorla Ghat, I continued towards Belgaum, the only major city between Goa and Kolhapur. Leaving Goa, I entered the Karnataka border – the difference in road condition is a reminder, should you miss the border entry – and noticed the sharp difference in the topography.
While Goa is all about swaying palms and thick coconut groves, the landscape now altered to show exposed land – brazen and bare. Big rocks studded in the ground. The flatland was now entirely treeless.
I thought of crossing Belgaum in a jiffy, however, the increased heat and the lack of water made me stop at an eatery on the side of the road. It was actually a hotel with a restaurant serving pretty decent food.
After filling my water canteen and hydration bag, I again plunged into the heat. The highway now was wider, and straight as an arrow. All I had to do was to sit tight and accelerate.
However, experience has taught me to be vigilant at all times and not to fall in the lull of a constant high speed, because an occasional two-wheeler is bound to come from the wrong side, a state roadways bus is certain to sneak up from behind, silently, or a tempo traveller will swerve dangerously in your direction.
I did meet two-wheelers approaching from the wrong side, and the buses did creep up behind me, but none was fatal because I was alert and ready.
I thought that reaching Kolhapur would be a cake. And although I reached there before the clock struck 3:00 pm, I was well-roasted under the fierce mid-afternoon sun.
Relieved to be in the hotel, I took a cold shower and felt human again. I had planned to look for the best places to eat in each city I arrived, and I tried this with my first sojourn at Kolhapur. An episode of Highway on My Plate mentioned Shyam Vada Centre and Bhau Bhelpuri as must places to taste the street food of the city. So, off I went searching for these two food destinations. But as luck would have it, Shyam Vada Centre was shut that day, and after going around in rings – and walking close to 4 kms – I could only reach an unappealing franchise of Raja Bhau Bhelpuri. No patrons, no meeting with the charismatic man. Yet, I helped myself with something of a novelty; the ‘masala cone.’
Masala Cone from Kolhapur
Exhausted by the walk and unnecessary milling about, I returned to the hotel and ordered food from Swiggy. The meal may have tasted better in the famous restaurant from where I had ordered, but I was way too tired to venture out.
My resolution to visit all the famous food destinations throughout my journey was out of the window, the very first day!
In the previous post, I related little insights on my journey from Kolhapur to Pune. It was a disappointing day, and the excessive heat made things worse. But if I was bothered by the heat during my Day 2 ride, I had absolutely no idea what was in store for me as I advanced north – crossing Gujarat and Rajasthan before reaching Delhi in the first leg of my long and trying journey. But first, my account of the Day 3 journey – Pune to Surat.
Vroom Tales: Solo Riding Experiences 